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Ingredient lists are an important part of cosmetic products. Have you ever looked at the ingredient list of a DIY lash adhesive and wondered what those ingredients actually do?
While INCI (pronounced ‘inky’) lists identify the ingredients in a formulation, they do not explain the role each ingredient plays in product performance. For brands developing DIY lash products, understanding the function of individual ingredients is just as important as understanding the INCI list itself. Each ingredient contributes to the overall performance, stability, and user experience of the final product.
Let's take a closer look at the ingredients commonly found in water-based DIY lash adhesives and the important role each one plays.
What Is an INCI List?
INCI stands for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients. It is the globally recognized naming system used to identify ingredients in cosmetic products.
An INCI list provides transparency regarding the ingredients present in a product. However, it does not explain why those ingredients are included or how they contribute to the product's performance.
or DIY lash adhesives, ingredient selection directly affects:
- Adhesion performance
- Flexibility and comfort during wear
- Drying characteristics
- Product stability
- Shelf life
- User experience
Understanding these functionalities can help brands make more informed decisions when selecting adhesive technologies.
Breaking Down Key Ingredients in DIY Lash Adhesives and Their Functions
Acrylates Copolymer (such as Acrylates/Ethylhexyl Acrylate/Styrene Copolymer)
Primary function: Adhesion
This polymer is the backbone of the adhesive formulation and is primarily responsible for lash retention.
It forms the flexible adhesive film that keeps false lashes securely attached throughout the day.
Without this polymer, the adhesive would simply not perform.
Water
Primary function: Carrier
Water serves as the formulation's primary carrier.
It allows the adhesive to be applied evenly and smoothly. As the product dries, the water evaporates, leaving behind the adhesive film that provides the desired hold.
Water-based systems are widely used in DIY lash adhesives because they provide excellent application characteristics while supporting formulation flexibility.
Many consumers are pleasantly surprised to learn that water is often one of the largest components in modern DIY lash adhesives.
Wetting and Spreading Aids
Primary function: Wetting and spreading aid
These ingredients help the adhesive spread evenly across the lash band and improve contact between the adhesive and the application surface.
Their benefits include:
- Improved application consistency
- Better wetting behavior
- Uniform adhesive distribution
- Reliable product performance
Consumers may never notice these ingredients directly, but they benefit from the smoother and more consistent application experience they help create.
Preservatives (such as Potassium Sorbate)
Primary function: Preservation
Preservatives are commonly used in water-based formulations.
Because water-based formulations can support microbial growth, preservatives help maintain product quality and safety throughout the product's shelf life.
These ingredients help ensure that the adhesive remains stable from manufacturing through consumer use.
pH Adjusters (such as Ammonia)
Primary function: pH control and stability
pH adjusters are typically used in very small quantities to help maintain the appropriate pH of the formulation.
They support:
- Polymer stability
- Consistent product performance
- Manufacturing robustness
- Shelf-life performance
In addition, they help keep the product compatible with the natural pH range of human skin and eyes, helping minimize the risk of chemical irritation while stabilizing the adhesive.
Without proper pH control, adhesive performance can change over time.
What Is the Difference Between Black and Clear Lash Adhesives?
The primary difference between black and clear DIY lash adhesives is typically a single ingredient: Carbon Black.
Carbon Black
Primary function: Color
Carbon black provides the deep black appearance many consumers prefer because it blends naturally with eyeliner and lash bands.
The ingredient does not provide adhesion, it simply creates the desired visual effect.
Carbon black used in cosmetic applications is subject to regulatory requirements, and its permitted use may vary by product category and region.
Why More Ingredients Doesn't Mean Less Safe
One common misconception is that a shorter ingredient list automatically means a better or safer product.
In reality, every ingredient in a professionally designed lash adhesive serves a specific purpose:
- Adhesion
- Stability
- Preservation
- Application performance
- Appearance
The real question is not how many ingredients a formulation contains, but whether those ingredients are selected responsibly and work together to deliver safe, consistent, high-performing products.
Looking Beyond the INCI List
When comparing DIY lash adhesives, it is important to remember that two INCI lists may appear very similar at first glance. However, the performance, stability, and quality of the final product can vary significantly depending on the specific raw materials selected and how they are formulated together.
For example, multiple suppliers may offer raw materials with the same INCI designation, yet these materials can differ in purity, performance characteristics, regulatory documentation, and consistency. Selecting the right ingredients is therefore about more than simply matching an INCI list—it requires a thorough understanding of formulation science, application performance, and regulatory requirements.
At H.B. Fuller Beauty, ingredient selection is guided by performance, product quality, and compliance considerations. As regulatory expectations continue to evolve, including requirements under the Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act (MoCRA) in the United States, careful ingredient selection and supplier qualification play an important role in supporting both product performance and regulatory readiness.
This is one of the reasons why two products with similar ingredient declarations may deliver very different results in terms of hold, drying time, wear performance, stability, and overall user experience.
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